Clothing set [Accepting Payment] Hye Hwa Joker Coat 1/6 & Limited Full Outfit (WAITING FINAL PROTO)

[Nick D]

Wow thanks to this guy! ^ And i agree! $500 should net us the best ledger jacket possible

Thanks bro! It’s a must we get these details correct! For the 15th anniversary no less!

 

[Mechanized]

I personally would not mind waiting longer for more accuracy either. Excellent research, @Nick D.

 

[jagzz]

Can he rub the suede down so it isn’t as textured and fluffy? The suede should be smoother.

Can you see to it that he adds the stitching to the coats upper left breast pocket as well?

Breast pocket should be loose enough that it curves out away from the coat instead of flat and straight like we’ve always gotten in the past.

Stitching is on :
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- Sleeve cuffs
- Front and underside of lapels
(this continues down to the base of the coat)
- Around both side pockets
- Left upper breast pocket

Note: there’s also a line underneath the left breast pocket that continues up both sides of the pocket.

Maybe see if he can also push the stitching out closer to the edges on all of these areas instead of further in onto the suede? Stitching should hug the borders of these areas.

These photos capture
the details I’m referring to:

Left breast pocket stitching, & line. Bunch up effect at shoulders where arm sleeves meet:
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View attachment 463947

Note: this line should look like this
|___| with the top of the breast pocket adorning the stitching.

There should also be a “bunched up” effect at the seam line between the shoulders and arm sleeves.

As the sleeves go down, they should taper a bit at the elbows to create form, until flaring out at cuffs due to being unbuttoned.

View attachment 463940

Sleeve cuff stitching:
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View attachment 463953

Button placement:
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View attachment 463955

Note: the second button should be slightly higher than side pocket but still remaining on the same horizontal line.

Each button down the front of the coat should be roughly two button sized spaces apart from eachother.

View attachment 463942

Here you can see the stitch work around both pockets at his sides, stitching is on the sides and bottom of coat pocket flaps, none on the top, in its place; a thick embellished line.

Note: there should also be two lines that go above & below side coat pockets, one line stops short under and above the side coat pockets toward the front of the coat, this is mirrored on both the left & right, side pockets of the coat.
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In the first photo below you can also see a slanted line located at the collar before the lapels, this is also mirrored on both sides of the collar above the lapels.

View attachment 463954

Note: there is also a long line that travels down both inner coat sleeves pictured above, this is where the sleeves are sewn together.

This line travels from the inner sleeve cuffs, up towards the armpits and stops where the sleeves are sewn to the rest of the coat.

This line should sit in alignment with the thumb of the gloved hands, this should also be mirrored on both coat sleeves.

The long line that runs down the left front section of the coat pictured above starts here and should be level and on the same horizontal line as the first waistcoat / vest button and stitching.

This line ends a few inches below the last coat button shown in another picture below.

At the bottom of this line it should curve to the edge of the coat, it is not squared off, but rather a soft round edge.

In the photo bellow you can also see the sleeve buttons, they’re identical to the buttons that go down the front but smaller in size.

There should be five buttons and five button holes on each cuff.

The button holes should be rectangular in shape.

View attachment 463984

Sleeve button and button hole placement:
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View attachment 463983

Note: the buttons should sit slightly lower than the rectangular button holes.

There’s also another line pictured above that goes under the side pockets that travels to the bottom of the coat towards the back of the pockets. Don’t get this line confused with the line next to it that cuts short. Two lines make their way through the side pockets, this is mirrored on both left and right sides of the coat.

Followed by another line that goes from the bottom of the coat up into the upper arm / shoulder area, this line is where the coat begins to split for the first panel, this is again, mirrored on both sides of the coat.

One main line down the
center of the back of the coat.
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Reference for length of the coat
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View attachment 463949

It appears from this angle that the bottom of the coat should come down to just about where the top of his long socks would be, perhaps just an inch higher than that, if the angle this photo was taken at is taken into account.

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View attachment 463938

Can you see if Hye Hwa can make this panel either sit extremely flush when coat is closed or perhaps removable when not in use?

We also need a wire in
the bottom of the coat.
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To conclude -
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I’m afraid if all of these details go unnoticed then we’ll be right back here in a year or two making this coat, void.

I, as well as others don’t want to spend almost $500 usd for a coat that needs any updates on a 2.0.

With the limited 20 max total units made,
as well as the extremely high price point,
I see no reason not to check every last detail required.

Let’s make this coat stand out from any coat in the past as well as any coat in the future.

If Hye Hwa is sent all of this info, as well as all of the marked photos above, he should nail this run 100%.

I don’t have any problem on the wait time if this means every single detail listed above gets accounted for. As the purple coat is the most important, as well as visible aspect to Ledgers Joker suit. Make it happen Jagzz!

$450 is a lot for just the coat
with all of these details missing.
Please add them in.

Is the end of August still the deadline date?

Or are you expecting pushback into September?

Currently I feel we aren’t ready for a proper final prototype, until all of these details are on the 1:6 coat, as I want this coat to be absolutely brilliant.

I understand Hye Hwa and his team of tailors have to line up scheduling for this, but please make no mistake, there is no rush. Nothing good ever comes from a rushed release date.

Thanks Jagzz.

This is amazing, I need to compile it to make it easier for him to understand.

 

[Nick D]

This is amazing, I need to compile it to make it easier for him to understand.

Let me know if there’s anything you need help with Jagzz, happy to assist bro.

Here is another photo I wasn’t able to include due to the 10 photo limit here.

Center line down the back of coat:
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Note: the main line down the center of the back of the coat goes from under the collar down until it splits the coat in half with equal number of panels flanking it on both sides.

There are four panels in total on this coat, the center line divides these panels into two parts, with each side having two panels.

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Coat lapels:
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Note: the coat lapels need to be extremely sharp & refined with as straight of a line as possible.

They should not be soft.

Emphasis on sharp; if the coat lapels are not spot on, the entire look of the coat will be thrown off.

The top of the coat lapels, the part that connects to the collar should have a very slight upward angle flaring outward, this part should not be straight in a horizontal sense.

Also, there should be plenty of space in the gap between the lapels and the collar, this will help better define shape in a visual aspect.


The stitching needs to encompass the coat lapel in its entirety, until it connects to the coat collar, this is again, mirrored on both lapels.

The coat lapel should not engulf / eclipse the coat pocket much, it should cover less than half of the upper left breast pocket.


The coat lapels are arguably the most important detail, as it’s the most visual aspect of the entire coat.

 

[jagzz]

I think I already compile everything, just need him to work on it.

 

[Nick D]

I think I already compile everything, just need him to work on it.

Thank you for adding all of this info bro.

It’s refreshing to be heard by run organizers.

Is the end of August still the due date for payments?

 

[jagzz]

Hahaha happy to do that, I always made detailed feedback in PPT for the tailor.
Your notes definitely help a lot, I think we can deliver the best Joker coat in existence.

 

[jagzz]

Thank you for adding all of this info bro.

It’s refreshing to be heard by run organizers.

Is the end of August still the due date for payments?

Will have new deadline, waiting for the final proto.

 

[Nick D]

Awesome bro! Let’s tackle this coat once and for all!

 

[Cap'n Cook]

This is very exciting.

Is it possible to have the coat without the grenade rig if desired?

Also can we opt for a non wired bottom hem (if that is going to be included)?

Thanks.

 

[jagzz]

This is very exciting.

Is it possible to have the coat without the grenade rig if desired?

Also can we opt for a non wired bottom hem (if that is going to be included)?

Thanks.

But it’s already included, we explore the idea of using velcro so we can use or removed it as we please.

For the bottom we planned to hve a very thin wire, so it doesn’t impact if we want to have a drape look, but we can stylize it as we please.

 

[Nick D]

The side coat pockets should have a thick embellished line above & under the pocket flap. Forgot to mention the bottom embellished line under the flap earlier.

Here’s a proper look at the upper breast pocket as well for shape.

Also, here’s a better look at the long line that goes down the front left side of the coat, to get the proper round edge at the bottom of the line.

 

[Nick D]

Will Hye Hwa and his team be using the “pickstitch” sewing method for the stitch detailing? This is the method used on Ledgers purple coat. No lines run across the top of the suede with this method.

I believe this is achieved by:

threading the needle into the suede from the top, running the needle and thread under the suede, pulling it back out on top of the suede the required space down, then pull thread through. Then insert needle directly behind the thread you just pulled through. Repeating this process the entire way with the proper sized “gaps” required to create the ripple edge effect.

I could be wrong, but I believe this is correct.

From info gathered, this can be done by hand for a neat look or by machine for a more rippled effect.

Maybe try both to find the desired look?

This will give you the “ripple effect”
we see without long stitching lines running on top of the suede.

 

[Gipetto0812]

You guys are lucky to have @Nick D on this run. The guy knows TDK Joker’s outfit better than nearly anyone I’ve seen in my ~15years in this hobby.

All these details are very exciting and have me considering jumping on the run if money allows. The only downside being the rest of my Joker outfit not being quite as nice or as accurate

@jagzz doing an excellent job managing

 

[Nick D]

Very kind words @Gipetto0812

 

[jagzz]

View attachment 464029

Will Hye Hwa and his team be using the “pickstitch” sewing method for the stitch detailing? This is the method used on Ledgers purple coat. No lines run across the top of the suede with this method.

I believe this is achieved by:

threading the needle into the suede from the top, running the needle and thread under the suede pulling it back out on top of the suede, the required space down, then pull thread through, then insert needle directly behind the thread you just pulled through. repeating this process the entire way with the proper sized “gaps” required to create the ripple edge effect.
I could be wrong, but I believe this is correct.

From the info gathered, this can be done by hand for a neat look or by machine for a more ripple effect.

Maybe try both to find the desired look?

This will give you the “ripple effect”
we see without long stitching lines running on top of the suede.

View attachment 464030

Sure, I’ll discus this with him. He suppose to know more on the stitching method and what is possible in the 1/6 medium.

 

[Nick D]

There should be no inner coat pocket above the grenade rig.

In the photo above you can see the split in the suede on the left side of the coat as well as the orange lining.
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Is there any way we can get the orange lining to go down the insides of both coat sleeves on this? It should be present and will be noticeable given the flare at the cuffs being documented. This has never been done before.

Is it possible for Hye Hwa to use a less rough texture for the orange lining?

It should be a soft satin with a sheen.
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The same line that’s on the front of the left side of the coat should be mirrored inside it.

The line down the front on the left side of coat should go slightly past the coat sleeve.
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Below, there’s a seam line across the shoulders on both sides. These seam lines should line up perfectly with each other.

Note: these seam lines should be very prominent.
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Pictured below, there is another seam line that runs through the entire inner collar, this is where the collar is sewn onto the coat. This seam line should line up with the seam line that connects the collar to the lapels.

Note: there is no pocket located inside the purple coat above the grenade rig, this is shown in the photo above.

Note: the top of the black velvet grenade rig should come up to the grey blazer left breast pocket when opened.

Will this coat come with the safety pins by chance?
Would be a fantastic touch,
If so there are 10 of them.

There should also be an “ S ” shaped metal hook attached on the top of the velvet grenade rig, it should be able to rise up and hang down when not in use. (Both occasions are pictured below) This is where he stores the silver metal finger / thumb ring on the purple string.

The black material the grenade rig is made up of should be a soft black velvet material instead of canvas.

The straps that hold the grenades in place aren’t leather, but elastic cloth bands.

(4 black elastic bands, 1 filthy white elastic band)

Note: the upper right band should be noticeably thicker than the rest, this one basically coddles the entire grenade. This elastic band has bright purple / pinkish stitching on it.

There should be four button holes going down the suede next to the grenade rig.

These button holes don’t go completely through to the outside of the coat but rather inside.

This suede panel is split open directly at the first button hole and continues all the way down until the last button hole on the left side of the coat. This has never been done before.

Note: these button holes should line up with the buttons on the right side of the coat when the coat is closed.

The last button hole should be close to the bottom of the round edge of coat line, with the top of the line going an inch higher than the grenade rig.

I’ve increased the exposure to have a better view of these details.

The sheer amount of details this coat actually has is insane bro.

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I appreciate your cooperation on this Jagzz, it really is a breath of fresh air, & I apologize in advance to Hye Hwa Han and his team for putting them through this, it’s a lot.

If they can pull this off, it will without a doubt be the greatest 1:6 accomplishment in the custom community, perhaps in this scale in general. This is sure to never be topped nor replicated again if we’re able to add all of these details in.

Thankfully, there are no more details after this, this covers everything.

 

[jagzz]

Sorry for the lack of updates, Hye Hwa still working on the final proto.
Please be prepare to be blown away.

Thanks guys

 

[Nick D]

Just sent payment Jagzz, please confirm & add me to the list. Thanks again, can’t wait.

 

[jagzz]

Just sent payment Jagzz, please confirm & add me to the list. Thanks again, can’t wait.

Updated bro! Thanks