TAKING ORDERS: 1966 light up Batphone [DoggieDoc]

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Are you actually casting it in a translucent red or casting it in clear and painting it red?

So I am printing the phones in a clear resin. I can either tint the resin BEFORE printing or I can dye it AFTER printing. I have been experimenting with dying the resin once the print is done (because tinting the resin ahead of time means I am stuck with red resin for other projects, which I don't want), and it works REALLY well. Only problem is the color is currently too dark. I also don't want to be able to fully see THROUGH the phone... so I tried using a frosted glass spray finish to reduce the translucency, which actually worked REALLY well. I have a few photos of my current test, I'll post them when I get a minute.
 
Are you actually casting it in a translucent red or casting it in clear and painting it red?

Ok so here is a short video of the new version I was working on (I included a video of my original prototype as well). You should notice a few changes...

1) The button is short
2) The phone is a bit darker red
3) The light up feature is much more prominent

So all in all I am happy with how it is looking except for how dark the color is. I will be trying to do a lighter, more red/orange version, as you see on screen, in the coming days. I have made changes to the inside of the model as well to try and better accommodate everything going inside of it.

And just a reminder why I am considering the new method.... the original method involved simply painting the model red and allowing light to bleed through the paint. It actually works very well, but if my paintjob isn't consistent, the light bleed can look messy. The way the spray paint works, it might look perfect on the outside, but when you light it up it then can look splotchy. By dying the plastic itsel, the coloring and thus the light bleed should be able to be kept much more uniform amongst all the phones I do.



 
I see what you mean. The outside is dark, but when the light is activated, you can see the inner workings with light and dark areas.
 
I see what you mean. The outside is dark, but when the light is activated, you can see the inner workings with light and dark areas.
And what do you think of this? I have confidence I can stain the resin in a more accurate color that isn't dark, yet retain the increased light up appearance. Thoughts? Is the increased luminence a positive or negative?
 
In looking at the two videos, I think the original looks better only because you don’t see the inner workings as much when lit up. For me, it is hard to tell if it is too dark without seeing the 1:1 next to it for reference.
 
In looking at the two videos, I think the original looks better only because you don’t see the inner workings as much when lit up. For me, it is hard to tell if it is too dark without seeing the 1:1 next to it for reference.
I agree that the original looks better. The second one is more unevenly lighted than the first one.

Thanks for the opinions, guys! More to come VERY soon!
Shakespeare print.png
 
Looks great! What is that next to the bust, looks like one of the roller coasters from Cedar Point.
 
******* brilliant.
Tell us how you really feel Lee.

Haha hey I'm super pysched that you guys are psyched. I will have the first print of the bust done and some basic pics tonight. I am still working out the switch for the light... unfortunately the exact type of kitchen-timer like switch doesn't really exist, so I have a few ideas of how I am going to fabricate one especially for this project.
 
I would totally buy a 1/6th Batcave. I bought the 1/50th scale Batcave from Factory Entertainment. All you have to do is scale it up!
Me too. I have the Batcave from Factory Entertainment, but 1/6 would be awesome!
 
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